Anchors Aweigh, Boys.....!

The Western Australia Maritime Museum at Fremantle is a must-see for visitors. The ultra-modern building stands on the wharf near the harbour entrance, and an ex-RAN submarine, the HMAS Ovens, is next door to it: guided tours of the sub are conducted daily. The Shipwreck galleries are housed in a separate buildnig, to get there, cross the main road to Esplanade Park, the gallery entrance faces the park.
Along the main road adjacent to the museums stands an excellent display of old anchors. This display shows clearly how the old fashioned Admiralty Pattern anchor evolved.

The anchors were made from cast or wrought iron. The cross-member, or stock, is at right-angles to the flukes: as ther anchor lands on the bottom, the stock causes it to fall sideways so that one of the flukes can dig into the sea-bottom (also known as "the ground"). Older ships' anchors had a built-up wooden stock. Attached to the anchor is a long length of heavy chain, known as "the cable". Once the anchor has set itself, the ship pays out a length of cable about equal to six times the water depth, so that the heavy links lie on the bottom, the pull on the anchor being almost horizontal, so that the fluke won't break out. A ship is said to be "dragging anchor" if, in a storm or because of soft (or bad) ground, it loses its grip.

On setting sail again, the cable is winched in so that the pull approaches the vertical, and the fluke breaks out. This is described as "to weigh anchor". Anchors on sailing ships were stowed and lashed just under the bowsprit, or brought inboard and secured on the forward deck. Some Admiralty Pattern anchors had a folding stock (see above) whereby the stock went through an eye forged in the shaft, and could be folded alongside the shaft when not in use.

Among the Fremantle collection is an unusual example of a large "plough anchor"; probably used for permanent moorings, buoys etc. The next picture shows how an Admiralty anchor lies in position on the sea-bed:

An old wooden-stocked anchor.

Captain James Cook in New Zealand

Some years ago I read a National Geographic book, with excellent maps (as is usual with NG) about Captain Cook's epic voyages of discovery; I was in Australia in December 2005, and bought R Hough's comprehensive biography of Cook, wich I read with great interest. I decided that if ever I went to New Zealand I would visit the place where he had his base -- Ship Cove in Queen Charlotte Sound. Recently my wish came true, for while I was in New Zealand, I took a boat trip from Picton, which called at Ship Cove. The spot is near the seaward end of the Sound, and is accessible only by boat or hiking. The weather was rainy and cold, not the best conditions for a cruise, but there were only three passengers, two English hikers and me, and we were able to shelter on the covered lower deck and chat with the skipper.

We landed at Ship Cove at a small jetty, and walked over to see the memorial, a massive pyramid of stone, topped by an anchor and bearing the simple legend COOK, and a heraldic device. The DOC (Dept of Conservation) have erected some historic information displays, and a Maori totem (or whatever they call them down there) carved from a reddish wood. There is a short shingle beach backed by dense forest from which flows a stream; the explorers thus had the necessities of life, and were able to careen the ship on the beach (ie beach it and scrape and clean the bottom). In that weather, the place seemed evocative of those lonely 18th century mariner-explorers, whose duty and fortitude brought them so far from home.





On the return journey, the skipper dropped off the hikers at Resulution Inlet -- they would be picked up at the next spot on the afternoon run. The boat stopped again to load another hiking party's baggage to take to Picton. These excursions on Queen Charlotte and Pelorus Sounds, known as the "mail-boat runs", are a great way to see the more remote parts of Marlborough Sounds that labyrinth of waterways and islands. The Pelorus Sound boats are based at Havelock, a small boat harbour a few kilometres away.

Capt James Cook, officer, navigator and explorer.

I've just started reading a newer biography of Cook, by Vanessa Collingridge, which reveals more of this story: when I've got through it, I would like to follow it up on the parallel blog Runagates' Club.

Good Morning!

20 STEPS TO THE SLEEP OF YOUR DREAMS

“Sleepe after toyle, port after stormie seas….” (Spenser.)

This little collection of hints was copied from a local newspaper column (if I could remember which I would acknowledge it!):


A new survey has found that nearly 50% of Britons get less than six hours’ sleep a night, with 18% getting by on less than five hours’ rest. The research, which was conducted by Dr Chris Idzikowski, of the Edinburgh Sleep Centre, also revealed that three-quarters of us wake up every morning feeling exhausted, with one in four taking time off work for being over-tired.

Idzikowski puts the blame on modern lifestyles that keep us up late, but require an early start the next day.

“We are heading for an exhaustion meltdown as a nation,” he says. So how do you counter this modern plague? Here are 20 ways to get a good night’s sleep — whatever your problem.

1: Eat little and often. Some insomniacs wake with a jolt at 3am, when blood sugar is low and the body releases adrenalin. “Stabilise your blood sugars during the day by eating every three hours and keep to foods with a low glycaemic index — they take longer to digest,” says nutritionist Dr Marilynn Glenville (http://www.marilynglenville.com/). “Before bed, have some hot chamomile tea and an oatcake.”

2: Change your mattress. Mattresses from Tempur support the body by distributing weight evenly. According to a Swedish study that monitored 23 000 sleepers over eight years, using the specialist mattress resulted in an 83% reduction in tossing and turning.

3: Turn off your cellphone. Many people find chatting on cellphones over-stimulating, so switch yours off at 6pm, or whenever you get home.

4: Change your breathing pattern. Deep breathing helps your mind calm down and it produces relaxing endorphins, says clinical hypnotherapist Georgia Foster. Draw air into your lungs for five seconds, release completely, and then hold your lungs empty for a further five seconds. Repeat three times.

5: Start brain-dumping. Keep a pen and paper beside your bed and write down your anxieties, so you don’t have to lie awake worrying about them.

6: Eat a spud at bedtime. Starchy foods — such as potatoes and bananas — are full of chemicals called tryptophans that naturally boost levels of serotonin, which promotes calm and restful sleep. Supplements such as 5-HTP vegetable capsules also claim to increase this happiness hormone.

7: Listen to the voices in you head. Relaxing and subliminal CD’s offer subliminal messages to send you off.

8: Drink cherry juice. Tart cherries contain significant quantities of melatonin, the hormone needed for restful sleep.

9: Get into a routine. Going to bed and waking up at around the same time helps regulate sleep-wake cycles. Reading a book for 20 minutes can be used as a cornerstone of a peaceful night. Avoid long lie-ins at weekends.

10: Take a cold shower. Long, hot soaks before bed raise your body temperature at a time when it is programmed to fall. Take a cooler bath or shower instead.

11: Skip the gym. Exercising after work increases body temperature and changes your natural rhythm, making you too alert.

12: Muscle in. If you are being woken by nocturnal muscle twitches, try taking a herbal relaxant. Speak to your pharmacist.

13: Declutter. According to the rules of feng shui, your bedroom should promote a harmonious flow of nourishing and sensual energy. So keep it clear of clutter, banish the TV, computer and fitness gear, and get rid of the boxes and suitcases that may be harbouring negative energy under the bed.

14: Paint it white. Colour therapists recommend that bedrooms be decorated in “skin” colours, from pale pink to rich brown; bright red walls, for example, are too stimulating.

15: Unplug the PlayStation. Teenagers seem to be able to cope with bright flashing \screens before falling into bed, but adults seem to become over-stimulated, causing their minds to race when they should be resting. Avoid games before bedtime.

16:Keep your feet warm. Put a blanket over the end of the bed or wear socks.

17: Try a snore cure. Your partner’s snoring — or even your own — could be the root of your sleep problem. Try over-the-counter snore remedies or see your doctor.

18: Observe the 20-minute rule. If you have been awake in bed for more than 20 minutes, get up and rest elsewhere. Do not return to bed unless you feel sleepy.

19: Herbal tips. Valerian has long been associated with sleep.

20: Onion sandwiches, anyone? The Romans ate onions to cure vision problems, heal dog bites, treat lumbago — and induce sleep.

* * * * *


“……………………………………innocent sleep,
Sleep that knits up the ravell’d sleave of care,
The death of each day’s life, sore labour’s bath,
Balm of hurt minds, great nature’s second course…..”
(Shakespeare.)

Enjoy your day........

The Crafty Seagull of Fishermen's Harbour, Fremantle.

The M Kailis' fish restaurant on the wharf at Fisherman's Harbour in Fremantle is a popular place to have a meal or snack; their staff produce fish and chips in great quantity at lightning speed. I first discovered the wharf in 1994, and this year I took most of a day to explore Fisherman's and the Challenger yacht harbour. Notices on the wharf requested visitors not to feed the birds, but the seagulls flocked around this and other cafès on the wharf. This crafty guy saw some scraps on a plate, and the following sequence was captured on photos!

Hey! is that some grub I spy......

...........softly, softly........

.......nearer the plate, nobody sees me.......

.....Gotcha!...........

.....now the fast getaway......


......I'm outa here, guys!

Doubtful Sound, Fiordland, New Zealand

A visit to either Milford or Doubtful Sounds is more or less a must for any visitor. I was lucky enough to tour both sounds in September last. South Island had a late spring this year, and early September is not quite the best time to go; having said that, fiordland expetiences up to 7000mm of rainfall every year so one takes one's chances as one can. The Sounds are specaculr in any weather, whether in bright sunshine or gales and rain -- often that all comes on the same day!

This is an edited excerpt from my e-mail to friends; dated 26 September:

Hi everybody,

Thanks for the replies; this is my last afternoon in Te Anau, I'll be catching the bus for Invercargill tomorrow. Goodness,but this place does chuck the weather at you! Yesterday I had an all-day outing to Doubtful Sound, amuch narrower deeper inlet than Milford, and remote as can be. There's no direct access, you go by bus to Lake Mnapouri, catch the boat across the lake to the hydro-electric station, then another bus over the Wilmot Pass to the sound. That's the remotest bit of road in NZ, it's not connected to any roads, itwas built only to get the construction machinery for the power station from Deep Cove (ie Doubtful Sound) to Manapouri. Oh, yes, the weather: on the excursion, it blew a gale across the lake, one could hardly stand on the upper deck, then poured with rain over the pass, and the voyage on the Sound was a mixture of wind, pouring rain, and patches of sunshine on the steep mountains around. It's arguably more spectacular than Milford, The mounains around are 1400-1600m, but not quite so steep, but the rainforest comes right down to the water. It's evergreen beech forest, the trees look ancient, and draped in mosses, the ground overgrown with ferns and moss; truly a landscape for giants. The Sound has a number of inlets they call Arms, and the skipper went far into Crooked Arm, and then into an inlet of Hall Arm, where they do the "silence of nature" bit: the engines are stopped, and they ask people not to move or speak for 5 min; all you hear are the birds calling and the sound of much water falling down the slopes of the Fiord. I liked that, it puts one in a philosophical space, contemplating the grandeur, the rugged beauty and sheer remoteness of that special place. Other than the boat, nothing man-made can be seen or heard. I guess the romantic nature poets, eg Wordsworth would have been moved to lyrical verse, all I can do is try to say what it feels like.

The return was just as dramatic, and the wind as strong, but coming across Lake Manapouri we had the setting sun behind us, and clearer views of the forested mountains. I took masses of photos, but will have to see how they look, at times the light was so grey, the mountains too misty for the camera's autofocus to pick up -- you had to find something solid to get a picture!

Incidentally, I've read that the Sound was named Doubtful by Captain James Cook (of whom more later), from the seaward end it looked so narrow and steep that he doubted that a sailing ship could sail out again -- sqare-rigged ships needed a lot of space to tack against the wind. Captain Cook missed Milford Sound on his circumnavigation of New Zealand -- the entrance from the Tasman Sea is deceptive; Milford was discovered by a Welsh navigator, who named it for Milford Haven, a port in Pembrokeshie.

The Brave Little Fur Seal of Kaikoura.

The Kaikoura peninsula lies on the east coast of South Island, New Zealand, running several kilometres into the Pacific. The views from there are terrific, to the north across the bay the Kaikoura Mountains rise almost sheer from the coast, snow-topped in October; the high peaks are at 2600m. To the south the cliffs and beaches stretch away to the horizon. The day I was there the weather was fine and sunny, the Pacific Ocean deep blue, flecked with small white horses. It was low tide, and the rocks were exposed: the resident seal colony lounged on the rocks and beaches, basking in the sun. After a while I spotted a young seal swimming to shore, looking for a place to land. Perversely, he chose a very steep and, I guess, slippery rock as a slipway. The sequence of photos shows his comical antics to achieve the crest of the rock. 

Where do I get out?

Uh-uh, this rock is slippery!

Whew!

..Getting there...

Ah, got a flipperhold!

Little bit further.....

Made it!..... I'm the King of the Castle!

Some Snippets and Photos, New Zealand

Excerpts from an email dated 16 September 2008:

Hi All,

Just been out for a morning walk: for the first time, I am able to take off my jacket & sweater! The sun is bright, it's quite warm, but the breeze has an edge to it. Last evening I watched and photographed the lake at sunset, and the wind off the snow mountains was cutting, I had all protective clothing on! The mountains look best early morning and evening, and I should have stayed on until the sun went down, as the snow stays almost luminous against the dark sky, and the hight clouds go pink & orange. I don't know if a digital camera will capture it, but I'll have a go tonight; you have to use a tripod and time-exposure, so it's experimental at present! I have taken 100's of photos, to try to get the best exposure, so quite a lot may be deleted eventually. However there are just so many angles to take photos from, so I mustn't waste too much time. I wanted to get up close to Mt Cook, but the bus service there and back only starts in the summer: here defined as 1st October! Anyway, it's pleasant & quiet here, and i have one more day to walk. I'm doing quite well, last evening I walked out across the bare bed of the lake (it is very low now), over rocks and boulders, and survived without the walking stick.

This high plateau is known as the "Mackenzie Country', after one James McKenzie, a 19th century Scottish immigrant. Mckenzie was a noted sheep-thief, and amassed a flock of over 1000 rustled sheep which he drove over Burke's Pass, to graze on the open land here. Arrested and sentenced to five years in prison, he escaped three times, after which the authorities allowed him to leave the country; I think he went to Australia. This must be one of the few farming districts anmed for a rogue! He's described as a New Zealand folk hero.

After two years of drought the plateau looks as brown as the highveld in winter, but they hope for better rains.

There is a memorial here to the collie dog, which was put up by the sheep-farmers as a tribute to these fine dogs, without which they couldn't work here.

Yesterday morning early I took a flight around Mt Cook and the Alps; the aircraft look quite big in the brochure, but I had no breakfast, just in case. In the event, there were extra passengers, and I was allocated to a seriously small aircraft (excuse if I'm repeating this?), a Cessna 6-seater! Five of us got in, and I had to sit in the co-pilot's seat, very cramped. It was alright at altitude, but on the way back, of course, it got very rough, and I had my sick-bag ready in my hands. However, the pilot Andrew was very good; I just made it to the airport without throwing up. I say airport, it is just a tarmac strip in the middle of this wilderness, and a small terminal building. I went off and had a large breakfast (for me), and that's just the "small breakfast", the Farmers' breakfast includes rib-eye steak!